Thursday, April 20, 2017


Mieczysław






Mieczysław in a fine sailor suit. White was only worn on rare dress-up occasions by middle-class boys of this age. in the first decade of the 20th century in Europe


Sankt Petersburg 

 My maternal grandfather, Mieczysław [pronounced: mye-CHI-swahf] was born in St. Petersburg on 28th October 1898. The date is according to the "old style", i.e., the Julian calendar. To convert “old style” to “new style” one needs to add 12 days, if the “old style” date falls in the nineteenth century. So according to the  calendar we use today (i.e. Gregorian) my maternal grandfather was born on 10th November 1898.

Why two different calendars? The solar calendar, which was established by Julius Caesar after conquering Egypt in 46 BCE,  had a year as 365.25 days long; the year in the Julian calendar started on March 25, the first day of Spring. In the year 325 CE, the council of Christian bishops (at Nicaea, now Iznik in Turkey) set the vernal (spring) equinox to the date 20 or 21 March (depending on the year's position in the leap year cycle), and agreed that Easter will be celebrated on the first Sunday following the first full moon after the vernal equinox. But as the centuries passed people noticed that solstices and equinoxes were occurring a few days too late. By the year 1500, the seasons were 10 days off from where they started out in Caesar’s time. Since the Julian calendar had an average equinox date on March 10th, Pope Gregory XIII decided to remove ten days from the Julian calendar putting the average vernal equinox date back to March 20th. The ten days removed were October 5 to14. Thus, the day after Thursday October 4, 1582 was Friday October 15, 1582, and the seven-day week cycle continued without interruption. The calendar change in 1582 happened only in Italy, Spain, Portugal and Poland.  Other countries lingered on. England and its colonies did not begin using the new calendar until 1752; Sweden adopted the new style only in 1853. Russia and Greece did not switch to the Gregorian calendar until 1918 and 1924 respectively. The Eastern Orthodox church still uses the “old style” Julian calendar to set the dates of feasts. 

Mieczysław made his entrance into the world during the reign of Tsar Nicholas II, the last Emperor of Russia. “Mieczysław” is an old Slavic name of Polish origin and consists of  two words: sword and fame, which combined together mean a “famous swordsman”. Do names determine our destiny, I wonder, thinking about Mieczysław’s fate, or do we subconsciously try to live up to our names? If so, then parents should be really careful when choosing children's names. In those days, the custom decreed that sons of ethnically mixed marriages should be raised in their father's faith. Mieczysław was christened in the largest and one of the oldest Catholic churches, St. Catherine’s, in St. Petersburg. The tomb of the the last Polish king, Stanisław August Poniatowski is to be found in this church. 


The Wilinskis were rather  well off. With Jan’s handsome salary (and perhaps Maria’s substantial dowry) they lived a relatively comfortable life. Their apartment was lavishly decorated and sumptuously furnished in a typical late-nineteenth-century Russian style. Maria could afford a live-in nanny for the baby, a maid, a cook, a seamstress who would come to the house several times a year to make her gowns, and a laundress. She and her little son would spend summers in dachas with friends or in Riga with her family. Maria did her shopping at the elegant shops or at busy Gostiny Dvor ("Guest Court", a vast departament store) on the Nevsky Prospect. In pre- revolutionary times, the Nevsky Prospekt could be said to be the financial center of the Russian Empire. The Wilinskis   might even visit an opera house to see “A Life for the Tsar”, a patriotic-heroic tragic opera in four acts with an epilogue by the composer Mikhail Glinka - a work “being favorite with all the classes” - in the opinion of a journalist in the 1902 American Monthly.  


Built on the banks of the Neva River in 1703 by Tsar Peter the Great, St. Petersburg was nicknamed  the“Venice of the North”, due to its majestic canals and bridges. The large, elegant and solidly built eighteenth century brick and stucco buildings, wide streets called “Prospects” arouse admiration. Unfortunately, St. Petersburg was also the most unsanitary imperial capital in Europe. The habits of life were not healthy: poor families lived in dark, damp and cold cellars, crowded together in one room. The water of the Neva was simply poisonous;  smallpox, typhus and cholera epidemics were frequent among poor and rich alike. The diseases did not spare even the Tsar’s family. No question about it, Russia lagged behind the West in matters of public health. 


Odessa

Around 1902, when social unrest started in St. Petersburg, due partly to famine in some provinces of Russia, and partly to industrial depression,  Mieczysław’s parents decided to leave the beautiful although unhealthy “Venice of the North” and move to the “Russian Florence”, as Odessa was called at that time. Odessa was the third largest city in European part of Russia after St. Petersburg and Moscow. This another ethnically diverse port city, on the Black Sea, was also a cultural oasis,  as St. Petersburg was. There were some two dozen public and private libraries and reading rooms, three museums, several theaters, Italian opera, public auditoriums, a university and nearly 200 public and private schools. 

I’m not sure to what extent my great-grandparents appreciated the cultural bounties of Odessa, but they must have had their son’s education in mind. This required thought and consideration, as there was no compulsory school attendance in Tsarist  Russia.  I’m sure they would have loved to send him to a Polish school, but Polish schools as such did not exist in Russia and the Russian part of Poland because of the offensive Russification program imposed on Poles by the tsarist authorities, especially after the Revolt of 1863. Thus, in 1869, the Higher School of Warsaw was turned into a Russian university, and Russian supplanted the Polish language in all intermediate schools. In 1885, the compulsory use of Russian was extended to all elementary schools.  Religion instruction was delivered by the Catholic priest in the Russian language. When in school, pupils were forbidden to speak Polish among themselves. Primary schools in the whole Russian empire had the aim of giving children a religious and moral education, developing in them a love of Russia. 

The use of the Polish language was not allowed in schools, it could not be forbidden in homes, where Poles taught their children Polish history and literature. Mieczyslaw’s parents were no different, they made sure that he got a proper Polish education, while his mother also taught him German. It turned out that young Mieczysław possessed a gift for languages.

Although my great-grandparents were not members of Russian nobility, they expected Mieczysław to choose a military career, as it was proper for the sons of  families of noble background or, simply because it was a pragmatic option. Therefore, after primary school Mieczysław - gladly or reluctantly, we will never know - entered a military gymnasium where young men were taught to drill, gymnastics, and use of the saber. The young cadets also learned religion, composition in Russian, algebra, elementary geometry, geography, and Russian history. Upon his graduation in 1913, Mieczysław continued his education at the Sergievsky Artillery School in Odessa. 



Mieczysław at the cadet school in Odessa. Students of military schools wore a uniform: a tunic in summer, and in winter a caftan, with the number of their class embroidered on the collar. 

During this time, the political situation in Russia was worsening, and in 1917 had developed into full-blown revolution. The Bolsheviks were quickly taking over. Since many of the Russian officers did not wish to submit to the Communists, a volunteer “White” Army against the Red was organized. In this whirlwind of history, Mieczysław, less than twenty years old, enlisted in the White Russian Army under General Anton Denikin, and was assigned to serve as a gunner on the armored train. Armored trains were used extensively by both the Red Army and the White Army as most fighting was along railway lines, the main  means of transport in many contested areas. Armored trains had a brief moment of military glory, and with the advent of motor transport faded from view. 

On July 17, 1918, Tsar Nicolas II, his wife and children, and even their servants met a tragic end at the hands of the Bolsheviks.  On November 11, 1918, Poland regained its independence after 123 dramatic years of partition and again appeared on the map.  At the end of 1919, Denikin's Army was defeated. The Whites were driven back to the Black Sea, where they evacuated on British ships on March 27, 1920. Russia has changed fundamentally. 



Łódź

 In March 1920, Mieczysław crossed the Polish border and reported to the newly established Polish Army. As he had a military education, as well as some war experience, he received the rank of lieutenant and was assigned to the 4th Regiment of Heavy Artillery which stationed in Łódź, a city he did not know. 

Imagine a broad plain covered by a forest of black-factory chimneys, whose smoke rises perpendicularly, and, slowly sinking saturates the air with soot and gas. That is Łódź. Beneath this canopy of smoke is the low murmur of music - the humming of thousands upon thousands of spindles and looms”, wrote a Swiss journalist in 1922. “ Łódź is a young city, without tradition or history. A hundred years ago a little primitive cloth-factory was set up in a forest hamlet here. Half a century later the place had 50,000 inhabitants.”

Did the city’s ugliness, smoke and smell repel Mieczysław? Did he miss the sunshine and the fresh sea air of Odessa? The beauty of its buildings? The Nikolaevsky Boulevard above the Richelieu steps? (The steps will later become famous thanks to Eisenstein’s 1925 silent movie “The battleship Potemkin”.) 
Maybe, but things were happening fast, and he was only 21 years old. Young people do not tend to look back, as they have their whole lives ahead of them. 

In Łódź, Mieczysław met my future grandmother, 18-year-old Jadwiga (née Łuckiewicz), who worked in the military censorship office; her job was to read letters from Polish soldiers to their families in Russia and blacken out the military “secrets”. Jadwiga was born in Kiev to Polish parents; her father served in the tsarist army and died of battle wounds in 1914, at the very  beginning of the First World War, when Jadwiga was only12 years old. Jadwiga, her 2-years-older brother Staś, and her mother managed to survive the Bolshevik Revolution in Kiev, and left Ukraine with the Polish Army units in 1919. 

Jadwiga was beautiful; she had dark hair (not quite black, but dark brown), brown eyes, a slender graceful body, and pride in her personal appearance. She dreamed of becoming an actress, like Octavia Zoll, her step-brother’s mother-in-law, who had achieved a success as an operetta and cabaret actress in Vienna. Octavia once made a light promise to take the young woman under her wings. Jadwiga’s own mother strongly disapproved the idea: performing on the stage was not a respectable profession for a respectable woman. Jadwiga naïvely believed that by marrying Mieczysław she would gain independence from her mother and will be able to try her luck on stage. But instead of becoming an actress in Vienna, admired for her indisputable beauty, she gave birth to a girl, my mother Lidia, in 1922., and had to forget her dreams and accept reality of being a wife and mother in the early twentieth century.

I should mention that in those days, officers were expected to live in style, for which reason marriages were strictly regulated.  An officer without private means wishing to marry a poor girl would have to leave the service.  Mieczysław did not have private means, and Jadwiga was not affluent either, so they married in complete secrecy.  Their marriage was, however, discovered, and Mieczysław got sacked from the army. Since teachers were in demand,  he became a teacher; but either the regulations changed or someone interceded for him, for he was soon readmitted to the army, and restored to his rank.


The young Wilińskis led a life typical of a military family - a life which did not abound in too many excitements, although they had plenty of friends and acquaintances. They led a rich social life, attending dances at the Officers’ Club, making trips to vacation resorts. But the officers not only danced with their beautiful wives: to maintain the army in combat readiness, various trainings and maneuvers had to be held from time to time. Also, Mieczysław was given the task of writing down the history of the 4th Heavy Artillery Regiment in which he served. The book was published in Warsaw in 1929.  90 years later, it can be still bought in antique shops.








Like any officer in the Polish Army, Mieczyslaw had an orderly to shine his boots, and see that his uniforms were always clean. Orderlies were soldiers of the lowest rank, recruited from peasants from the eastern borderlands who, being illiterate, could not serve in any other capacity. Lidia, a teenager at that time, fondly remembers one Hryćko, whom they treated like a member of the family, and even took him to their summer vacation spot. Every evening, he delayed  going back to the barracks as long as he could; he enjoyed helping the maid to cook and clean, as well as the walks with my grandmother to the market. He had one endearing weakness, namely that he loved being photographed. This is why on almost all their vacation pictures we see Hryćko standing at attention - as befits a good soldier - in the very foreground, while the rest of the merry company is leaning out from behind him. How joyous and jaunty they all look on those faded old photographs!

In the early 1930s Mieczysław decided to catch up on his education. He followed in his father's footsteps and chose law, and enrolled in the extramural classes at the University of Warsaw. Was he thinking of leaving the army? Probably not - armies need lawyers too. After studying hard for four years he got his JD degree. Meanwhile he also managed to bring his parents to Poland from Odessa, who had suffered severe hunger and hardships under Soviet rule. Jan did not have a job any more, and Maria made some money sewing clothes for workers. They became so poor that could not even pay customs fee for the food parcels their son sent them. Neither could they board the train and come to Poland. Like many other Poles who did not leaveSoviet Russia before the communist regime had solidified its power, Mieczysław’s parents were stranded. Seeing no other option, Mieczysław put on his officer's uniform and went to the Soviet Embassy.  To the disbelief of friends and family who expected him to disappear without trace in the depths of the grim building, he secured a permission for his parents to leave Russia. 


It still was not so easy, but they finally arrived - together with the Singer sewing machine which saved them from starvation, and almost nothing else. During the first few weeks in Łódź, they were amazed by the new environment and culture: they could not believe that one was able to buy food without standing in endless lines. And what food! Every time the maid brought home groceries Jan would look at them in wonder, touch them and even smell them; he would smell butter, tea, coffee, bread with a dreamy expression on his face, as if remembering something from the distant past. His mind probably wandered to the pre-revolutionary times when he and Maria were wealthy and lived a comfortable life. 




The War




War had been in the air for some time, although nobody knew anything specific. The Polish government, however, was expecting German invasion and (for reasons which are not quite clear to me) ordered the navy to leave and cruise to Britain. The Polish navy left the ports on August 20, 1939.  The rest of the army, Mieczysław’s regiment too, expected imminent mobilization and waited for orders. Then the hell started. 

“On September 1, 1939, Hitler’s unstoppable armies surge into Poland. Blitzkrieg becomes his signature attack, combined with extensive bombing that destroys the enemy's air capacity, rail system, communications, and munitions dumps. The German infantry then moves in, destroying everything in sight, silencing any remaining resistance.” - wrote a New York Times reporter in September 1939.

From the first days of the war, Poland was torn apart by fast-moving German army. The commander of Mieczysław’s unit, Major Hipolit Burchard, decided to evacuate the regiment south, in requisitioned cars, and across the border into Romania. Officers’ families, my grandmother and my mother among them, joined the regiment in this flight. There was total havoc: they were bombed, some of the cars broke or run out of gas. To make matter worse, the Soviets invaded Poland on September 17, 1939. Although the Polish government managed to evacuate to Romania, with substantial military forces and some of the air force, Mieczysław’s unit did not make it out; the regiment was demobilized in Kovel (now in Belarus) on September 19, 1939. Once the Soviets established firm control of the areas they occupied, they sealed the Romanian border. My grandmother and my mother had no choice but to return to their home in Łódź, whereas Mieczysław, since surrender was not an option for him, had to go into hiding. He decided to head for Warsaw. After they said their goodbyes in Lublin in the end of September, 1939, my mother (then less than seventeen years old) was to never see him again. 



The Occupation

Mieczysław disappeared. Like a stone into deep water. In October 1939, many secret military and intelligence groups were already organized, some by the army officers who, like Mieczysław, had avoided being taken prisoner. A few months later, my grandmother was contacted by a female courier, one of those heroic women who smuggled false documents, money, and arms. The figure of the female courier is an iconic image of the Second World War in Poland. The messenger conveyed a message from Mieczysław, as well as arranged a meeting for them in Warsaw. There, while strolling together through a park, Jadwiga learned that her husband  had joined a clandestine organization.  He did not, of course, provide any details other than “we even have an airplane” which sounded like bragging. Jadwiga still did not know where he lived, what he did, who his comrades were. 


Then, in the fall of 1942, he fell into the Gestapo's hands. The circumstances of his arrest are unclear, but there are documents available on the internet from which we learn that he was put in the infamous Pawiak prison on October 3, and deported to Auschwitz on November 18. He was imprisoned as a Polish political prisoner, and assigned the number 76168. As he was fluent in German,  Russian and Polish, he is registered as a translator in the camp ledger. 

Jadwiga learned about the arrest from a messenger. According to what the organization managed to establish, Mieczysław walked into a trap that was set by the Gestapo agents in somebody’s apartment or shop. They probably didn't know whom they caught (hoped the messenger), so there was a chance that he could be bailed out. Jadwiga immediately got in touch with a lawyer who was willing to mediate Mieczysław’s release from the prison. As most wives would do in a such  situation, she gave the lawyer all her valuables to cover expenses which might include bribing the prison clerk. It  turned out, however, that Mieczysław’s case was not negotiable, and the valuables were returned to her. 

I have been searching for clues to what activity he was involved in by analyzing the list of people brought to Pawiak on the same day as he, as well as the list of all men deported to Auschwitz on November 18. My line of thinking is this: some of them might have fallen into the same trap, or they were caught a couple of days earlier, and the trap was set up to catch their co-conspirators. One name that stands out is that of Stefan Plater-Zyberk, a member of the so-called Musketeers, a clandestine organization. 

Little is known of the Musketeers today. Established in early October 1939 in Warsaw, the organization conducted mainly intelligence and counterintelligence in the area of ​​the Reich and of Poland occupied by the Russia.  Only few names of those involved and a handful of facts are known today with any certainty. Apart from the group founder, engineer Stefan Witkowski, a colorful (some say, controversial) figure, the group included such individuals as: Antoni Kocjan, a pre-war glider designer; Tadeusz Derengowski, a glider and airplane pilot (Mieczysław told his wife that his organization had an airplane, so this might be a clue); Stefan Dembiński, an officer who served in the same artillery unit as Mieczysław (an even better clue); Mieczysława Ćwiklińska, an actress whom no one today would suspect of being in this role - that of a conspirator; and, last but not least, Stefan Plater-Zyberk, a famous photographer…

Stefan Plater-Zyberk was the owner of the “Photo-Plat”, a well-established studio, an agency and a photo-archive in downtown Warsaw, on New World Street. Before the war, he took part in the life of the Warsaw photographic community, actively participated in exhibitions, and regularly exhibited his work. In 1931, for his achievements in the field of photography, he was  admitted to the Polish Photo Gallery. Many of his photographs have survived to this day, and are sold on auction. The artist continued to photograph in occupied Warsaw and to run his business, while also falsifying documents for the Musketeers, who engaged in some mysterious matters that sent them, masquerading as German officers, to Berlin; and even, as agents of the British intelligence, to Russia. Were Stefan’s connections with the  Musketeers the reason for his arrest? (This is almost certain.) Was the trap set in his photo studio? Did Mieczysław fall into this trap? Was Mieczysław a Musketeer?

There is another name on the Pawiak and Auschwitz lists, which seems a more promising clue: Witold Zacharewicz, a popular Polish actor of the 1930s. At the beginning of the war, according to his wife, he also joined  an “organization”. (The Musketeers?) The cause of his arrest is known: he and his mother were involved in helping Jews who, after escaping from the Warsaw ghetto, needed the “Aryan” papers, i.e. false Christian birth certificates, false Aryan kenkarts. Halina, Witold’s wife, writes in her memoirs published on the Internet: “That afternoon [October 1, 1942] Mrs. K., the photographer's wife, came to me with news of her husband's arrest by the Gestapo - she also knew about my mother-in-law's arrest. I did not know anything about Witold.” Later Halina learned that Witold was arrested at the theatre, during a rehearsal. Witold Zacharewicz and his mother had been denounced to the Gestapo by someone they knew and trusted, a certain lawyer. Halina, like my grandmother, tried to bail her husband out. She spoke to a German, an acquaitance of a friend, who promised to help. She sold her jewelry and gave him the requested money, but never saw the man nor her money again. Three days after the arrest of Witold and the rest of his group (10 people), Mieczysław fell into the trap. Witold’s group operated in the town of Włochy near Warsaw. Was Mieczysław arrested in Włochy? Did he know Witold or somebody else from the group? On November 18, 1942, after 7 weeks of harsh interrogations at the Pawiak prison, Halina’s husband was deported to Auschwitz. So was Stefan Plater-Zyberk and Mieczysław Wiliński, and the rest of those arrested at the same time.

According to the camp  ledger, they arrived the next day. Their hair was  immediately shaved off, they got the underwear and prison uniforms in exchange for their clothes. They were assigned the camp numbers which were then tattooed on their left arms: Stefan 76147, Mieczysław 76168, Witold 76174.  Then, their photographs were taken; I can see that Mieczysław has a large bruise on his nose. 

They were allowed to write postcards (in German) from Auschwitz. They were also permitted to receive Red Cross and private food parcels, and warm clothing. Witold wrote directly to his wife, Halina; Mieczysław addressed his correspondence to Stefania Mieczyńska, Warsaw, Bahnhofstrasse 7/17. Who was Stefania Mieczyńska? Although he called her “Liebe Tante”, she was not a relative of his. According to the documents on the Internet, Stefania Mieczyńska was a member of the Home Army, whose task was, among the others, to maintain  underground communications with Polish officers in POW camps. She passed Mieczysław’s postcards to Jadwiga. His first postcard, however, dated November 20, 1942 (his second day in Auschwitz), is addressed to Sydonia Wólkowska, probably his land-ady. He felt very sick, and predicted he would soon die.  

According to the Auschwitz ledgers, Mieczysław, Witold and others from the two lists mentioned above died on Tuesday, February 16, 1943. (Stefan Plater-Zyberk had died one week earlier.) Some witnesses claimed that they were killed by a phenol injection, others that they were shot. Which is true? There exist a record of their admission to the prison hospital on that day. Families received notification of their relatives’ death with the date of 16 February 1943: Mieczysław allegedly died of typhus, while Witold allegedly died of heart attack. 

Anne Frank, just before her arrest, wrote: “I’ve reached the point where I hardly care whether I live or die. The world will keep on turning without me, I can't do anything to change events anyway.” I remember these words every time I look at Mieczysław’s Auschwitz photographs. 




Monday, January 30, 2017


This photo was taken to commemorate the visit of some Chinese educators to Theodor’s school in Chocen. Theodor is standing second from the left, next to his wife, my grandmother Zofia (also a teacher), and the boy between them is my five-year-old dad. 

                                                             Theodor



As a child, I adored my grandfather on my father’s side. My mother’s father was not destined to experience grand-fatherhood: he died of typhus at the age of 40 at  Auschwitz concentration camp, ten years before my birth. Looking back, I see my only living grandfather, Grandpa,  as an elegant older gentleman, clean-shaven and smelling of men’s cologne, with a watch chain draped from his vest pocket.  He used to wear creaking shoes, which made him very special in my eyes. From today’s perspective there was something 19th century about him.  And his name? Oh, his name, Theodor, not very common, impressed me so, that I could not stop myself from sharing it with the whole world. I would announce proudly “My grandpa’s name is Theodor!” to strangers met on a train or in a park, curious for their reaction, which usually was rather disappointing; they would only smile politely, and praise me for being such an outspoken little girl. Obviously the name did not seem extraordinary to them. 

As a young man, in the 1920s and 1930s, Grandpa taught at schools in small Polish towns and villages. He liked classes of small children best. In Chocen, a village in north-central Poland, where he became principal in 1929, he created an exemplary school, which made the village inhabitants and the school authorities in the area proud. The school was once visited by a delegation of Chinese instructors interested in modern education… It’s a delightful story, often recalled by my dad who was a toddler at the time, who knew it from his parents. The story was recorded in detail in the school chronicle kept by Theodor, and the local newspaper wrote an article on the event.

Let me give you the background of the story: in early 1931, in the midst of tumultuous political change in China, the government, under the leadership of Chiang Kai-Shek, had contacted the League of Nations to ask for its help in  modernizing of the country. The League of Nations then sent four experts to China whose goal was to evaluate the Chinese educational system. One of the experts was a Pole named Marian Falski, responsible in his country for primary education. The other three were: Carl Heinrich Becker, a German minister of education in Prussia; the well-known French mathematician, and professor at the Collège de France, Paul Langevin;  and Richard Henry Towney, a British teacher and a specialist on China. A delegation of Chinese instructors visited seven European countries in 1932, Poland among them, to take a closer look at their educational institutions. 

This is the point at which Theodor and his school come into the story. The Polish expert on education, Marian Falski, chose Chocen as a good example of  a modern seven-year village school to show the Chinese delegation. Such schools constituted a novelty in rural Poland, and there were not many of them due to a lack of resources. This school, however, built in a relatively prosperous area, with the help of the aristocratic owners of the village, the Higersbergers, had a small lab for physics and chemistry classes, a workshop for boys’ manual training with all the necessary tools, as well as a properly equipped kitchen for girls’ cookery classes. Whether the Chinese educators approved of what they saw is uncertain, as they remained silent and their faces did not reveal any emotions (as we read in the school chronicle). However, after seeing the school, they expressed a wish to see  how the teachers lived, so my Grandpa invited them to his three-room apartment. Here, at the sight of his library, which, reputedly, amounted to some two thousand volumes, their composure finally cracked. The rest of the visit passed in a more relaxed atmosphere, and the guests spared no praise for the sandwiches prepared by the schoolgirls, and served to them by pupils in the region’s traditional dress. 

I’ve mentioned the aristocratic owners of Chocen and their contribution to the existence of the school. In fact, the school owed its origin to the worthy landowner Aleksander Higersberger, and especially to his daughter Maria, affectionately called Marysienka, who donated two acres of land to the town in 1927 - a  birthday present from her father - to be used as a future school site. The Higersbergers were Polonized Germans whose ancestors settled in the area during the reigns of the Saxon kings in Poland in the mid-18th century. Aleksander Higersberger was a wealthy man; however, the sudden death of his daughter Maria at the age of 23, as well as the global economic crisis made him sell Chocen in 1933, after 40 years of living there and of co-running the sugar factory there. But the school survived tough times and the turmoils of history, and it continues teaching successive generations of children. The Higersberger’s traditional Polish manor house, built around 1884, surrounded by a beautiful park with magnificent oaks, chestnuts, ashes and hornbeams survived too and in good condition. The residents of Chocen take good care of  Marysienka’s grave at the parish cemetery. 

I should now say something about the man who brought the Chinese delegation to my Grandpa’s school. Marian Falski, then forty years old, had a turbulent past. As a young engineer, a graduate from Warsaw University, he was an anarchist and a socialist, fighting against the tsarist regime; he organized school  strikes during the Revolution of 1905, and around the same time participated in destroying a huge portrait of Tsar Nicholas II at a rally at the Technical Institute in Warsaw. His socialist activities led to his arrest and expulsion from the Russian partition of Poland, so he moved to Cracow (in the Austrian partition). There he started his life anew: he enrolled at the university to study psychology and pedagogy, and completed his doctoral thesis on the psychology of reading in 1917, one year before Poland regained its independence. His greatest life achievement was the authoring of the most popular Polish reading primer, that served many generations of young Poles, including myself. 

Even though it has been 60 years since I first went to school, I still remember well not only the smell of the printing ink and the rustle of the stiff, thick pages of my new reading primer, but also its oblong shape, the hard green  cover with a picture on the front of happy rural kids, sitting on a bench in the shade of a large oak tree and reading books. The reading primer starts with the name of a little girl - Ala, then we learn about a dog called As. For the whole school year, we followed Ala and As, Ala’s brother Janek and their friends and pets, in their everyday routines and little adventures, being amazed at the similarity between the lives of the invented children and ours. 

Only recently did I find out that Ala, who seemed to be an invented character, was, in fact, a real girl. She came from a Jewish family of doctors, close friends of Marian Falski, and her name was Alina. Alina Margolis was born in 1922, the same year as my mother. As the first generation of Poles to be born in the free motherland since the late eighteenth century, they were subjected - both at school and at home - to a patriotic upbringing. They sang nationalistic songs and recited nationalistic poems with ardor. Public life in Poland had a nationalistic tone, and the cult of Marshal Pilsudski, the leader of Polish independence, was predominant… This is all understandable considering that for almost one hundred and fifty years, Poland was partitioned by three hostile powers, Prussia, Austria and Russia, and simply did not exist as a state.

Both my mother and Alina Margolis were only seventeen when WWII broke out. Since both my grandfathers joined a conspiracy, their wives and children had to fend for themselves, working for the occupier. Alina shared the fate of other Polish Jews: the horrors of the ghetto, where she became a nurse at a Jewish Hospital. She miraculously survived  the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising in 1943, and the Warsaw Uprising in 1944, in which she took an active part. After the war, she became a doctor specializing in pediatrics, and married Marek Edelman, one of the leaders of the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising, also a doctor, with whom she had two children. All this time she had led a “double life”: the fictional life of the forever young schoolgirl Ala, and the real life of the respected doctor Alina Margolis-Edelman. Anti-Semitism belonged to the painful past, never to be reborn again. Or so it seemed… 

During the turbulent year of 1968 in Poland, Poles of Jewish descent, among them intellectuals, scientists, artists, economists and politicians - including party members - were blamed for causing the social unrest, which, in fact, was manipulated by factions within the Polish Communist Party. Many people lost their jobs solely because they were Jewish. A large group of Poles with Jewish roots was forced to leave Poland. Although Alina’s husband Marek Edelman decided to stay “with all those who perished here” (meaning during WWII), she and the children emigrated to France. True to her calling, she participated in the “Doctors without Borders” expeditions, a French organization funded in 1968 by two French doctors, helping to save the lives and health of people all over the world. A truly remarkable person, she worked on hospital ships helping Vietnamese refugees, and in hospitals in El Salvador, Chad, Bosnia and Herzegovina, where during the Civil War there she helped to create a support center for rape victims. It's only a small part of her noble accomplishments, the list of which is long, varied and impressive. 

(Isn’t it a little strange that recounting the out-of-the-way visit of a pedagogic Chinese delegation to my grandfather’s rural school took me so far in terms of time and place, and even from the mood of the story about my Grandpa, the dedicated teacher, which I initially intended to write? But, as they say, you never can be sure where your story will take you until you finish it.) 

Returning to Theodor’s school, there were more bright moments in its  prewar history. One day in the 1930s, for example, the authorities in the village learned that the Marshal of Poland, General Edward Rydz-Smigły, who was the first person in the line of government rule after the President of the Republic, was to pass through Chocen, and, that he might even stop there for a moment! Feeling honored by this unexpected distinction, the inhabitants decided to show him their respect to the best of their modest possibilities. Therefore, on the appointed day, the village’s mayor and his small entourage, all in solemn dark jackets, lined up expectantly along the town only street; the fire brigade, dressed in uniforms with shiny buttons and dazzling helmets, stood in front of the fire station; and Theodor, surrounded by his pupils, some of them barefoot but all neatly combed specially for the occasion, gathered in front of the school. They all waited patiently, watching the road with bated breath. Finally, they heard, and a moment later saw, a black car looming in the distance: the Marshall's limousine! 

I can imagine their anxiety: the mayor nervously clearing his throat, getting ready to recite the brief greeting that he had been preparing for days; the firefighters standing, no doubt, at attention; the children, who were told to wave their hands cheerfully at the passing car, shuffling their feet and waiting for the right moment to begin. As the story goes, the Marshall's limousine passed the mayor, almost without slowing down, passed the firefighters, and stopped - to everyone’s utmost surprise - in front of the school. The car door opened, and out stepped the Marshal’s aide, carrying a large paper bag which he handed to my astounded grandfather. Then the limousine quickly drove away leaving behind the proverbial trail of dust. What was in the large paper bag? I was hoping you’d ask. Some ten pounds of soft candies. I bet the kids remembered the joy of eating them for a long time. 

Just before WWII Theodor became the principal of another school, in the small town of Kiernozia, famous for being the birthplace “in some dreary manor house full of bats” (as she referred to it in her memoirs) of a Polish countess, Maria Walewska, Napoleon’s Polish mistress, and mother of his illegitimate son, Alexander. 
Legend has it that Maria, then only eighteen years old and already a wife and  mother, caught Napoleon’s eye in 1806 when, on his way to Warsaw, he stopped at a village to change horses. The young countess, dressed simply, in a black hat with a black veil, pushed her way through the crowd and managed to get close to his carriage and exclaim: “Be welcome, a thousand times welcome to our land, Sire!”  Maria had a sweet, childlike face and an air of modesty and melancholy. Napoleon remembered her and requested to see her in Warsaw, intending to start an affair with her.They were introduced later, at a ball. Since Poland had been wiped off the map at the end of the previous century, Polish nationalists had high (but hardly justified) hopes that  Napoleon would liberate Poland from the Russians and the Prussians. To satisfy Napoleon’s fancy, the cunning aristocrats in a way forced Maria into his bed. Call it patriotic adultery. Their son, Alexander, was born in 1809. At the time of her romance with Napoleon, Marie was married to a much older man,  Count Walewski, a wealthy land-owner whom she later divorced. It seems she got really attached to Napoleon. They met secretly in Warsaw, Vienna, Paris, Naples, and on Elba; however, Napoleon never gave Poland the liberty he had promised Maria in exchange for her love. Marie died in Paris in 1817, at thirty-one, having failed to recover from the birth of her third son. A few weeks after her death, her brother asked that her body be brought back to Poland. While her heart remains in the family crypt of her last husband, d'Ornano in Père Lachaise cemetery, Marie’s body now lies in the local church’s crypt at Kiernozia.
As I mentioned before, during WWII Theodor did not teach. In the territories incorporated into the Reich, education in Polish was banned and punishable by death. Being active in counterespionage, Theodor could not also participate in the secret teaching organization, but he let my dad attend clandestine classes, which were organized all around the country. These were dark times.

After the war, Theodor, as always in elegant coats, shoes and hats, in defiance of the modern style favoring workers look, became a school inspector and moved to the city of Lodz. Apart from visiting schools, (a dull occupation in comparison to teaching), he researched the  history of education in Poland. History  was his second vocation. Regardless of how crowded was his schedule was, he always made time to rummage through archives and libraries. Whenever I visited, he was sitting at his huge desk that almost filled his small study. The typewriter's clatter would stop only when somebody knocked at the study door to announce that tea was ready. In his last years of life we had several cordial chats about my travels, interests we had in common, and poetry; Theodor liked reading poems aloud. As the years pass, I realize now what a very remarkable person he really was. He belonged to a more noble, a more worthy generation than mine, and lived up to those values.

Mój cioteczny pradziadek  Kazimierz Juniewicz